Mount Everest is open for business once more! After a four-year hiatus due to the pandemic, China has granted permission for foreign climbers to tackle the world’s highest mountain from the Tibetan side. This is welcome news for experienced climber Adrian Ballinger, who prefers the Tibetan route (known as Qomolangma in China) over the more crowded Nepali side. His company, Alpenglow Expeditions, is already leading a group to the summit this year.
Unlike Nepal, which manages Everest permits through tourism authorities, China entrusts the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) with this responsibility. The official announcement hasn’t been made yet, but climbers typically get the green light when the CTMA releases its seasonal price list. This list details expenses like yak gear transport, local guides, translators, and transportation from Lhasa to Everest Base Camp, explains Ballinger.
Foreign climbers also need separate visas for Tibet, a specific requirement for this semi-autonomous region, on top of their regular Chinese tourist visas. The climbing season typically runs from late April to mid-May. Ballinger’s team, having pre-acclimatized at home to save time, will arrive in China on April 25th.
For a period between 2000 and 2007, the Tibetan route was considered the safer option, drawing more climbers than the Nepal side. However, this changed in 2008 when China hosted the Olympics. Despite climbers being ready for their ascent, the mountain was unexpectedly closed just eight days before their arrival, causing significant financial losses. This shift in accessibility led to a surge in popularity for the Nepali route, which has remained the more frequented path ever since.
